Chissa, Grasse, and Antibes (Picasso)18, 19 mars 2011
Friday was a morning to study, then to school in the afternoon. It was a lovely, sunny day. A number of people were not in class, likely enjoying the sights of the area and beginning their weekend early. In the Intensive Course, we played Taboo, the game where you describe some thing, person, or place to get the others to guess the word. By the end, we were doing quite well. And Eric changed the rules a bit, letting us use the related words on the card. Normally these words are to be avoided. It was fun to play, and we were doing quite well determining the answers.
Chissa was leaving Nice Saturday morning, first to Paris for a week, then home to Tokyo, so several of us went out with her to the oldest Japanese restaurant in Nice. It was very good. We were an interesting collection from around the world: Japan, Hong Kong, southwestern China, US and Britain/Brazil. One would think that French would be our common language, but it is still English. We had a very nice time. I got home about 10:45 p.m.
This morning, I arose at 5:35 a.m. in order to meet Rose at the train station by 6:40 a.m. to visit Grasse and Antibes. Grasse is known for its perfumeries and Antibes for its beautiful water, the old city and the Picasso museum.
We arrived in Grasse just after 8 a.m. and took the bus up the hill to the old city. Our stop was the Fragonard museum and perfumery. The scent of the city is not like any other. Since the museum opened at 9, we walked a little ways down the narrow street of the old city for a little breakfast: orange juice, a hot drink, and two Viennese pastries for 5.50 Euros.
At the museum, we saw the old machinery used for distilling the scents for the essential oils used in the perfumes. There were many beautiful containers, some very tiny, that were used to hold the oils and beads. Most were small enough to wear as jewelry. Some box collections, for travel, were quite extravagant, including a tea set and hairbrushes. On the lower level, the factory is now producing jasmine oil and making their scented soaps. The jasmine oil is produced the “old-fashioned” way because the petals are fragile. In a glass box, animal fat (20% pork, 80% beef – also aromatic) is spread. The flowers are placed face down into the fat. This is left for a month, so that the fat absorbs the flower’s oils. Then the fat is “distilled” just as if making beer and the essential oil is the result. It takes tons of flower petals to create a relatively small amount of oil. I’m not one to wear fragrance very often, but this was so gentle, I purchased a set of sample fragrances for women and another for men.
Next we visited the Fragonard Museum – Grasse’s museum of the art and history of the province. This was simple but interesting. The house was built in 1769. It was turned into a museum in 1918 that shows the lifestyle of those who built the home. The furniture displayed has never been re-covered – it looked quite worn. Very little remains from the original owners, but one gets a sense of the extravagance. There were rooms dedicated to the people and culture of those who lived in the Province before modern times, and displays by a German artist who teaches sculpture in Nice, as well as everyday items used in the region, like an (olive) oil press and barrels.
Next we had to return to the train station for the afternoon adventure in Antibes. It took us a little while to discover that the bus makes a loop through town, so we had to walk to the station up the hill a little ways to catch a bus that would head downhill to the train. Once on the train, in less than 20 minutes, we were in Antibes.
The sky and water were very blue green today despite the wispy clouds. At first it didn’t seem that many people were around; many boats were in the harbor. We reached the ramparts of the old city – a deep and tall barricade to the town – and entered through the portal. That’s where everyone was! It was teeming.
We made our way towards the Picasso museum, stopping only to down a sandwich – mine was ham seasoned with oregano and Camembert cheese – so-o-o good.
The museum has a broad collection of modern art. Picasso stayed at this former home for a few months in 1949, which is why it became a museum dedicated to his life and work. Seeing a collective body of an artist’s work gives one insights into the person and his/her style and thought. There were no “famous” works here, but it is a significant collection.
We made our way back to the train station. We had to catch the 16:37 to Nice. Because we arrived earlier, we were able to take the 16:22. There were signs all over the station telling riders that the last train for Nice was leaving at 17:16 as there is going to be maintenance work on the track until late Sunday evening. It was good to get back to Nice shortly after 17:00 (5 p.m.). I know that I am tired.
Enough travel for me for until next weekend. More about that tomorrow, Dear Reader. Also, Mom is home and doing well. With gratitude to all for your positive thoughts and prayers. Have a good night.
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